Table Mountain over, the only other thing I knew I definitely wanted to do in Cape Town was visit Robben Island. It was interesting to learn about the pre-Mandela history of the place, as that tends to be the thing people think of when in fact it has been used for so many things in history, including a leper colony, protection of Cape Town during WWII, and a bunch of other things that I've forgotten now but promise, it was really interesting at the time.

We had a bus tour of the village first, it's so weird to know that regular people still live there, and there are even a bunch of little kids who until 2011 were schooled on the island but since the school closed they get the first boat back to the mainland at 6am every day for school. Mostly it's people who work for Robben Island museum and government staff who live there but you can still choose to live there if you want, strange though! We were taken round the prison by a former inmate, though he didn't tell us what he was imprisoned for - I thought it was probably a bit rude to ask...?! He had some cool stories about when he was imprisoned with SA president Jacob Zuma, and that was the first cell we went in to. It doesnt really look like a cell now, as it's quite big without the beds and stuff in there, and they've filled it with big poster boards and stuff telling stories about life in the prison. It was interesting but we didn't get time to read them all. As we were approaching Section B which is where the political leaders were kept (ie. Mandela), I felt a worrying wave of nausea sweep over me, and when the cold sweats started I knew for certain that I was going to throw up. Given that the cell toilets were out of action (and being stared at by tourists) I quickly assessed my options - left: monument to the fallen prisoners, right: stone wall, directly in front: the former inmate showing us round, behind: Shanaaz. I was going to plump for Shaz as I was sure she would forgive me, but I had a last second change of heart and made a run for it. It was MILES back to the jetty where there was the only toilets, and half way I almost gave up and went in a bush, but there are signs everywhere saying that it's a UNESCO world heritage site and national park so I didn't think they'd appreciate me blowing chunks all over the place...

After the throwing up incident I managed to drag myself back to Section B and reconvened with Shanaaz, even though the rest of our group had finished and disbanded I really wanted to see Mandela's cell so I went back in and had a look. It was small and bare, and impersonal, just how I'd imagined. I did however imagine it as a much more poignant moment, but just as I took a photo we heard the boat sounding its horn, which meant we had about 2 minutes to get aaaaaaaaaaaall the way back down to the jetty. Shit man. We legged it. Last people on but just in time.

I was woken up on the morning of my 27th birthday by the disgusting sound of a hacking cough coming from the strange German girl in the bunk above mine. There were 6 other unknown strangers snoozing in the room.

Shanaaz said she'd be here by 10am so naturally I expected her to arrive around midday, so after a quick breakfast in the shady courtyard of the hostel I set off for a wander. Walking down Long Street on a Sunday morning really epotomises the 'morning after the night before' feeling, with the smell of alcohol and urine everywhere and people doing walks of shame round every corner, lovely! We drove down to Boulders beach down towards Cape Point where you get African penguins on the beach, I just had to see that. It's so strange to see these creatures on a beach when I've always imagined them knee deep in snow and ice. Actually do penguins have knees? Anyway.

Then we went to Shanaaz's parents house for Sunday lunch, and not only was the food awesome and her mum a legend for singing two versus of Happy Birthday (original and monkey) but it was really nice to be surrounded by the noise and chaos of family life, even if it wasn't my own. We had to leave shortly after dinner as we had planned to go up Table Mountain for sunset. I really wanted to hike but there just wasn't enough time so we got the cable car. I feel I should pause here and have a mini rant about the sheer number of annoying Americans in the world - how can they be so universally irritating? And HOW do they always manage to find me?! We were in the queue just ahead of a group of American sorority type girls in big jewelery and long gowns - yeah, to go up a mountain... And all we could here was the nasal, whiney, 'like, oh my god you guys, thats like, totally awesome, really cool, oh my gawwwwd', it felt like the longest queue in the world. It was about 10 minutes.

Anyway rant over, so we got to the top and found ourselves a good spot to watch the sunset, and boy was it worth it - beautiful.

Quality birthday, fact.

Well, yesterday was probably one of the best days of my life.

We'd booked to go great white shark diving in the morning, and stupidly I left my jacket in the hostel in Jeffreys Bay so the day began with an 8am wait outside the nearest clothes shop to try and find something to keep me warm when the boat is out on the sea. This being African summer, obviously they had summer dresses and flip flops but nothing resembling a warm jacket so I sacked that off and decided to go northern and not take one.

We got to the sharkey offices and had a billion year 'safety briefing' where the guy went on and on about how we probably wouldn't see any sharks as they hadn't seen any all week and how we wouldnt get a refund if we didnt see anything because nature is all unpredictable and stuff. By the time he finished most of us were looking round at each other and thinking about grabbing our cash back and making a run for it. But what a good job that we didn't...!

We had a 30 minute ride further up the bay and stopped SO CLOSE to the beach, honestly there were people swimming really close by! As we approached we could already see fins sticking out of the water around a research boat which was also nearby, scary!!

The crew lowered the cage and when the captain asked for the first 6 people to go in, Karina and I leapt up and 'jumped' into our wetsuits (by god that thing is hard to get into...) and they chucked us in and shut the lid... We had goggles but no breathing apparatus so whenever they reckoned a good shot was about to happen the crew yelled 'Go down!' and we had to take a big breath and bob down to the bottom of the cage. The water was pretty murky down there (maybe all the fish guts and vomit from the seasick Kiwi girls didn't help with that), but luckily the sharks came REALLY close to the cage loads of times. And the money shot happened when I was above the surface taking a breath and saw thing massive shark head swimming right at us (not just a head, there was a body behind it but I could only see the head), so I ducked and this thing came open mouthed at the cage directly in front of me, looked me RIGHT in the eye and then grabbed the cage in its mouth! And THEN it just started gnawing at the bars RIGHT NEXT TO MY HAND! I stupidly kept my hand there for far longer than a normal (intelligent) person would, but thankfully managed to avoid having it bitten off. I heard a lof of commotion from above and thought hang on, this is far too dangerious, it's straight out of a horror movie this cant be right, maybe they want to get us out?! But no, they were just egging it on and making wooping noises so I ducked back down and Jaws Jr was still chewing away at the bars, honestly I thought he was going to get through!

Anyways, obviously he didn't, and I had to get out shortly after that to throw up over the side of the boat (it was the rocking that did it you understand, not the near death experience, honest...), and not long after our time was up so we sailed back to the port.

We went back to the hotel (more on that later) to have a shower and a lie down, and then in the afternoon we headed up to Mosselbaai airfield, 'cos we fancied hurling ourselves out of a plane again - it's addictive you know! This plane was EVEN SMALLER than the last - and I didn't even know that was possible! I got the short straw to jump first, so my tandem guy and I were sat right in the doorway as the plane set off, although can it be called a doorway if there is no door...??

The flight up (teetering on the edge of the floor!) was FREEZING, I was glad they made us wear jumpsuits (thankfully they had one to fit over my chunky thighs), but the view was utterly spectacular, the mountains on one side, the green countryside below and the Indian Ocean to the other side, stunning! It was a perfectly sunny day too, nothing to spoil the view. On the way up I was even more scared than last time, because I knew what was coming! I had to get one leg out and let that one dangle out of the plane whilst I hiked the other one over my head and round the doorframe (note to self: consider a career in gymnastics), and the guy didn't even tease me like the last one did, he just hurled us out so fast I didn't even have time for any last words. But they came out as we began the freefall and I'm fairly certain they were unbroadcastable. This time I managed to fully enjoy the freefall, last time I think I was just in shock all the way down and couldn't even crack a smile. It's so strange how the speed you fall at feels incredible (and it is, my tandem instructor and I reached 236kph which is faster than average - that's the chunky thighs speeding us up!), but as you look at the ground it doesnt seem to be getting any closer. We fell for 31 seconds and covered just over 6000 feet, and it was even more exhillarating than the last time - I even managed a smile or two! He let me take charge of the parachute and we did some crazy spinning which really felt strange and amazing and massively gave me the giggles, and then both of us whooped and hollered our way down to 100 feet when we had a massive gust of wind and had to do a bum landing instead of a feet one, but it was still really soft! I like to think it was dignified but with a boiler suit, goggles, pigtails and a red face from cold and laughing I very much doubt it. I have DVDs of both skydives, but the first one is so terrible only a lucky few will be permitted a view...! 

Without a doubt, yesterday was a pretty great day :D

So Karina and I said goodbye to Jess and Sabrina in Port Elizabeth yesterday, sad times. But it is good to be on the road again, the only negative about working on the game reserve was the confinement, I found it a bit stifling after a few weeks and I was ready for some freedom! I'm writing this from a hostel in Jeffrey's Bay, we got here yesterday and are leaving for Mossel Bay tomorrow but it's been a cool place to come and chill before more madness begins. We went to the beach this afternoon but it was so windy we just got sandblasted and had to sack it off, so we got a 'taxi' to a waterfall instead.I say taxi but, well, have a look for yourselves...!

I knew this week was going to be a biggie and as it's now my last week I intend to go out with a bang. SO, I got my lip pierced, had an oxygen facial, bought a customised piece of art from an awesome Rasta guy, and now we've just booked shark diving, oh yes and another skydive... If I'm honest the only reason we didnt also get tattoos when we walked past a place earlier is that they didnt do walk-in appointments - mum will be happy!

This week is going to be AWESOME!!!!!

The last few weeks have gone so fast! It's been so much fun though, and a real privilege to be in and amongst these magnificent animals every day. I still can't believe how close the animals get to the vehicle (especially the elephants!), it's been amazing.
Last night Jess and I cooked for the whole group (10 people!) and given that we had a lot to prove and we'd been banging on about how it was going to be the best meal they'd ever had, I was so glad that it all turned out well and the whole evening was an enjoyable success. For the first time everyone stayed up after dinner and we played cards and watched frances' skydiving DVD which was just hilarious - she was so cool there weren't even any embarrassing moments like there were in everyone else's! Everyone got along, the Americans were fun rather than obnoxious at last, and even the grumpy old cow that hates us all was fairly silent, so it was pretty cool.

Me, Jess, Karina and Sabrina (the other girls from the reserve) are now in Port Elizabeth for the weekend for some girly time and civillsation before Jess and Sabs head back and Karina and I move on down the garden route. As soon as we got here yesterday we dropped our bags and threw ourselves through the doors of the nearest MacDonalds - it was SOOOOOO GOOD! Today we'll do some sightseeing and shopping and just enjoy the company of people around us, honestly, after spending so much time with the same 9 people it's such a nice change to just see other people walking around. Then it's on to Mossel Bay for some shark diving, and then Cape Town for the grand finale...!

With the end of every other part of this journey I have been a little bit sad to leave but mostly just excited to start the next part of the adventure, but now I find myself grasping at seconds wanting them to slow down, because I know that the final end is just around the corner and reality is fast approaching.

I am going steadily crazy.

I am living with utter nutjobs. They are driving me mad.

There are 9 volunteers at the moment and there is a clear split between the olds and the young ones. The old ones are one bizarre English cat lady (65, single, has names for her inanimate objects, hates any person under the age of 40), and two American men (also 65, obnoxious, condescending, no self awareness or social skills). They are all obsessed with photography and all carry round outrageously large camera lenses whenever we go out. Honestly, whenever they see so much as a pigeon in the distance it sounds like we're on the red carpet at the oscars, they are ridiculous, the noise also tends to scare the animals away. They also whine a lot about how rubbish they think it is here in comparison with all the other supposedly fabulous places they've been. We find ourselves constantly thinking why on earth are they here then??!
The young ones are 3 Brits and 3 Germans, one of the British girls, Jess, is pretty cool and we find ourselves laughing hysterically most of the time. The other Brit, Kate, is nice but quite slow and I find myself losing patience with her when she still doesn't understand the rules to a card game even after we've been playing it for over an hour.

Because the house is in the middle of the reserve once we're dropped off we cannot leave, we can pace the grounds as much as we like but we cant go outside the fence. The house suddenly feels very small, and I can imagine what it's like to be a contestant in Big Brother. If I'm honest I've started talking to the mirrors and pretending that there are cameras behind them, just to amuse myself. I'm trying to concentrate on the work we're doing and try not to go totally insane, but it might be too late...

Kindle charger

Camera charger

Cropped jeans

Black leggings

Multicoloured leggings

Three black tops and one red one

Swimming costume

Black and gold flip flops

Suncream

Mosquito bite zapper

A fair amount of dignity

I'd been in the reserve less than 24 hours before I'd seen lions, elephants, rhino, zebras, giraffes and more impala than I could shake a stick at! It's so amazing to see the animals just chillin in the veld like they entry come straight out of the movies, I'll never get enough of it! I'm sat there on the cruiser amongst all those amazing creatures just thinking how lucky I am, and how much you'd love to be here dad!
The reserve is split into east and west - east is where you find reception and the main lodge and all the cute and fluffy animals. West is where you get the lions, elephants, black rhino and volunteer house...! Our house is nice, with 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a lounge, dining room, kitchen, and outdoor deck in the big garden with plunge pool and a fire area for braiis. The garden is surrounded by a flimsy wire fence which is all that separates us from the deadly beasts outside, and the view from the deck is stunning. 
The activities we've done so far include:

- harvesting and replanting spekboem, a plant which absorbs carbon

- pulling and chopping down black wattle, a plant species indigenous to Australia which harms native African plants
- road clearing
- game count 
- bird species recording
- teaching in a local school
- helping out in a township soup kitchen 

The fun stuff we've done so far:
- canoeing on the Kariega river

-Skydiving!

- eating (amazing food!) at the main lodge
- playing with kiddies at a local pre-school
- camping in the bush
- following the elephant herd for hours!
- hiking up a river to the waterfall and swimming in the pool at the bottom

There are 10 volunteers when it's at full capacity, but when me and the two other new people got here we were only 5 in total. But new folks arrived after one week, and then the real fun (and immense irritation!) began...

What did you do today?

Me, I jumped out of a plane at 12,000 feet and it was AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I literally cannot find the words to describe it all. The main feeling was just that seeing a bloke fling himself out of a moving plane when it's moving high enough to see the curviture of the earth is JUST WRONG!! It was so psychologically difficult to dangle my entire body out of the door and just hang there whilst the guy strapped to my back waited to push us out into the waiting nothingness. The first thing that hit me was the speed - within millliseconds we were freefalling at 150 mph. The second thing was thge sheer feeling of being unsupported in air, like nothing else I've ever experienced. The third thing I thought of was what my stupid face looked like for the camera pointing directly into it.

I can't tell you what was going through my head as we fell, because I really cant remember, I'm pretty sure nothing was! For the first time ever I was just enjoying the experience without second guessing and unrelated meanderings. Before long (which turned out to be after falling 7000 feet!) we hit thr clouds and deployed the parachute and owwww! I thought I was going to be suffiocated by my own boobs in the harness as we got jerked up. Then several moments floating around mid-cloud which just felt like being in a dream world, there is nothing but mist to left, right, above and below - so surreal! Then the real world emerged from the clouds and what a view! I saw Jess floating down just above us and waved. Then I stupidly asked the tandem guy to do something fun, and he did some mental loop the loops which felt like my feet were going to drop off but was hilarious.

Eventually we made an exceptionally smooth landing where I even managed to stay on my feet, then it was all over.

LITERALLY THE BEST AND MOST EXHILLARATING EXPERIENCE OF MY LIFE - SO FAR!!

I thought I should keep you all in the loop with my hair, as I'm sure you're all wondering what's going on. It suffered in Ghana, I won't lie to you, it literally quadrupled in size as soon as I got off the place so I had to resort to pigtails much of the time. I don't need to tell you how lame I looked. Uganda was SUCH a relief hair-wise as the humidity was back at normal levels, and I started to get used to the natural waves that I used to hate. Six weeks into the whole trip I ran out of Aussie conditioner, which would have been a major blow if I hadn't thought to pack those 3 bottles of intensive conditioner, so fear not I think we're going to get through this ok!

I thought South Africa would be similar to Uganda, but it's so windy in Port Elizabeth that as soon as I stepped outside with wet hair it got whipped up into blond afro round 2, so here we go again... :S